11/22/2025
What about cotton? In North Carolina, we just watched as our cotton was harvested; and it is usually harvested by November 30th.
America is one of the largest producers and exporter of cotton, followed by India, Pakistan, Egypt, Sudan, China and Brazil, as well as other countries.
There are four principal grades, which are judged by length:
1) Extra Long: More than 36 mm (1 3/8 inches). This is the finest cotton of which very little is grown today. At one time, cotton up to 50 mm (2 inches) was grown in Egypt and the Sudan, and in the "Sea Islands Coastal District" of Georgia and South Carolina, along with the West Indies. Its long season of growth made it vulnerable to the boll weevil, which decimated the crop. It is still raised in certain areas, and the grade is called "Supima." This particular cotton has a beautiful, silky feel.
2) Long: Average length is 32 mm (1 1/4 inches). It is a fine quality and obtained from varieties derived from Egyptian Cotton, such as "Pima", which is also grown in Arizona.
3) Medium: This cotton is 25 - 29 mm (1 1.4 inches). The bulk of American cotton is of medium staple length and is termed "Upland." Many countries grow Upland cotton varieties developed in America, such as "Acala" and many others.
4) Short: Less than 25 mm (1 Inch). Cotton from the Asian continent is principally of short staple length and is fairly coarse.
Cotton can come in different colors: red, brown, and green. There used to be a "blue" variety; however, I have not seen any blue in over 30-40 years. The color will manifest more so when boiled.
The properties of cotton are many. It makes a strong yarn owing to the fiber convolutions (twist). It is stronger wet than dry and can be washed vigorously and boiled. It is unaffected by alkalis, but acid will damage it. It is also subject to damage by mildew if left wet. Cotton is absorbent and is therefore comfortable in hot weather. The fiber generally does not shrink, though newly woven cloth will do so when relaxing after the strains of weaving. If ironed under tension, such relaxation may occur again. "Sanforizing" and similar treatments (such as mercerizing) artificially compress the cloth lengthwise to overcome possible shrinkage.
There are various ways to spin cotton. You can spin from the seed, punis, and combed top. Cotton requires a higher twist than wool; hence, a spindle wheel with a high ratio is necessary.
Single yarns can be used for weaving, but since cotton requires a high twist, the yarn must be "set" before use. Plyed yarns are commonly used for weaving and required for knitting. Good tension on the singles should be used when plying. The scope for slub yarns, gimp yarns, spiral yarns, and textured yarns of all kinds is extensive. Mixture yarns of cotton plyed with a yarn of another fiber: linen, wool, silk, etc... offer immense variety.
