06/19/2026
The Chocolate Tree
So why do I – a researcher of candy history – head for the Caribbean to do my work? A boondoggle, you might say? It isn’t a boondoggle, but it sure feels like one. That’s a good thing. But the truth is that candy is rooted in botanicals, going back thousands of years. And to get full measure of these essential contributors to candy history, I went to places in the Caribbean to see them up close. I interviewed farmers high in the mountains, and academics in museums. But the pivotal awakening came from the plants themselves. By far the most remarkable was the cacao tree. The flowers come directly from the bark, the leaves bend from the branch in what looks like sadness and grace, and they grow remarkably high. My love of plants – and cacao in particular - led me to grow them in West Virginia. Chocolate, Vanilla, Cashew, Kumquat, Macadamia, and Sapodilla used for the chicle in early American chewing gums…to name a few. Magnificent. Surprising. And informative. As for West Virginia weather? No worries. I have a greenhouse. Actually, two.