22/07/2021
As I’m building a range of products for Epode Skincare, I’m addressing those aspects of skincare that particularly impact skin of colour. It’s important to note that in any industry, we are sold convenience and quick fixes. But for skin of colour, though dermatology has made inroads, there is still room for improvement in finding “faster” treatments. By faster, I mean results within days rather than months. In the meantime, in the words of Bruce Lee, “long-term consistency trumps short-term intensity.” Darker skin tones don’t take well to intense heat sources such as lasers, nor harsh chemicals, such as glycolic acid peels. Both of the above “quick treatments” turn out to be risky and unpredictable for darker skin tones and are highly dependent on the practitioner. If your esthetician or dermatologist is not educated on skin of colour, for example, and are used to treating white skin, they are likely to cause burns.
IPL(intense pulsed light), Fraxel lasers, skin tightening lasers at 1540 wavelength, like Palomar, can cause persistent greyish, black spots and even scars in skin types 4-6. These lasers are designed for very light skin. Throw melanin into the mix, and the outcome becomes a question mark. Why not chemical peels? Most chemicals applied to the face in-office are much higher concentrations than over the counter products. They need to be neutralized after a certain amount of time. With darker skin tones, what tends to happen is, they are left on the skin too long because there is no magic number of minutes, or they are not neutralized evenly. If your pores are more prominent by chance, as is the case with many brown beauties, the acid will burn the deeper layers of skin, making it almost impossible to treat the post-inflammatory pigmentation. So brown beauties, arm yourself with solid information before getting any intense treatment.