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WRIST ICONS WRIST ICONS ❤ to curate watches, straps & books. Buy sell, trade or consign. Discover vintage & pre-owned iconic watches (Rolex, Omega Cartier i.a.)

Here we have a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3940J – Second Series (1988–1989) produced in the year 1988. This ...
05/02/2026

Here we have a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3940J – Second Series (1988–1989) produced in the year 1988. This watch has an early 2nd Series 1987 to circa 1989 - Dial Type 1.

So hoe do you recognise this particular ex*****on of the 2nd series? In the production of the Patek Philippe 3940 (1985–2007), there were several evolution stages of the dial. The 2nd Series occurred after the very early 1st Series and is commonly split into early and late variants. Type 1 generally refers to the early 2nd Series before the later modifications (like cross-hairs) were introduced. 

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Key Visual Features of a 2nd Series Type 1 Dial

1. Beveled / Raised Calendar Windows
• Unlike the 1st Series, where the day and month indicators are printed flat and flush, the 2nd Series Type 1 introduces sloping or beveled surfaces for these indications.
• This gives the dial a subtle depth effect — the subdials appear slightly more sculpted rather than flat on the surface. 

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2. Sub-Dial Layout
• The sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock are sunken with beveled edges.
• They are visually more recessed and have a sloped cut from dial surface to subdial. 

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3. DIAL TEXT Changes
• The PATEK PHILIPPE and GENÈVE text is slightly larger and bolder compared to the 1st Series.
• The accent on the second “E” in GENÈVE present in the 1st Series is gone in the 2nd Series. 

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4. Typeface & Font
• The 2nd Series retains the traditional serif font used in the 1st Series (so it still reads classic and slightly old-fashioned compared to later series), but with the changes above it looks more balanced and modern than the very early dial. 

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5. No Crosshairs
• A defining point of the Type 1 (early 2nd Series) is the absence of crosshairs on the leap-year sub-dial at 3 o’clock.
• In later (late 2nd Series) dials, you’ll see crosshairs dividing that subdial — that is not present on Type 1. 

Check also the article from on and Ben Dunn from & on . These guys did all the proper research. I just found a super nice example in a crazy good condition with rare Italian calendar. Straight from the vault from an Italian collector. Get it!

The Lange Double Split. Here we have one from the release year 2004. But did you know…….1. It was the first chronograph...
26/01/2026

The Lange Double Split. Here we have one from the release year 2004. But did you know…….

1. It was the first chronograph ever to split both minutes and seconds

Most collectors know it’s special, but not how special. Before 2004, no rattrapante chronograph in history could split elapsed minutes—only seconds.
Lange didn’t “improve” an existing idea; they invented an entirely new complication category.

2. The movement was so complex that Lange initially doubted it was buildable

Inside Lange, the project was considered borderline unrealistic. The movement (cal. L001.1) contains 465 parts, and the rattrapante minute mechanism alone required multiple abandoned prototypes. This wasn’t marketing bravado—it was a genuine “are we insane?” project.

3. The minute rattrapante uses two stacked minute counters, not a clever cam

Many assume the split minutes are driven indirectly. They aren’t.
The Double Split uses two physically independent minute wheels, stacked vertically, each with its own jumper springs and clamps. That’s why the movement is so tall—and why no one else dared to attempt it for years.

4. It quietly killed the idea that Swiss brands were the only chronograph kings

In 2004, the Swiss industry still saw itself as the natural home of haute chronographs. The Double Split forced even Patek and Vacheron collectors to admit that Germany had leapfrogged everyone overnight. Internally, it caused real discomfort in Geneva.

5. Early collectors underestimated how wearable it actually is

On paper:
• 43.2 mm
• Nearly 16 mm thick
Sounds brutal.
In reality, the short lugs, heavy platinum mass, and low center of gravity make it surprisingly balanced. Many early buyers expected it to be a safe-queen—then ended up wearing it more than planned.

6. The dial layout was chosen after the movement was finalized

Usually it’s the other way around. With the Double Split, Lange locked the movement architecture first, then spent months debating how to make the information readable without intimidating the wearer. The result looks calm—but it’s deceptive.

Song with all respect for the one and only who even turned with his team the double into a triple

Cartier Vendôme Riviera PM – Ref. 78248 – 18K Yellow GoldThis elegant Cartier Vendôme Riviera PM (Ref. 78248) is a true ...
18/01/2026

Cartier Vendôme Riviera PM – Ref. 78248 – 18K Yellow Gold

This elegant Cartier Vendôme Riviera PM (Ref. 78248) is a true representation of Cartier’s timeless design language. Crafted entirely from 18K yellow gold, the watch exudes refinement, sophistication, and the understated luxury that has made Cartier a favorite among collectors for generations.

The petite PM size offers a delicate and graceful wrist presence, perfectly complementing its minimalist round case and slim profile. The classic Cartier dial, iconic Vendôme lugs, and harmonious proportions make this a versatile piece suitable for both effortless daily wear and more formal occasions.

This model is sought after among collectors of vintage Cartier, thanks to its pure aesthetic, subtle elegance, and rarity in solid gold. A perfect addition to any discerning collection.

Why We Love It

Fully crafted in 18K yellow gold

Elegant and timeless Cartier design

Rare and collectible PM size

Quintessential Parisian aesthetic

A vintage Cartier icon in beautiful condition

Specifications

Brand: Cartier

Model: Vendôme Riviera PM

Reference: 78248

Material: 18K Yellow Gold

Movement: manual

Case Size: PM size — approx. 23 mm

Dial: Classic minimalist Cartier style

Bracelet/Strap: custom made lizard leather

Condition: Excellent vintage condition nd fully serviced by our watchmaker

Included: Watch only

Le Cadran — The Dial by Dr. Helmut CrottStill buzzing from our recent meeting with Dr. Helmut Crott — a true titan of th...
08/12/2025

Le Cadran — The Dial by Dr. Helmut Crott

Still buzzing from our recent meeting with Dr. Helmut Crott — a true titan of the watch world, a scholar of unmatched depth, and above all, one of the kindest and funniest humans you can hope to meet in this industry.

His legendary book Le Cadran remains the reference when it comes to understanding the art, history, and mysteries of vintage watch dials. A masterpiece written by someone who has spent a lifetime uncovering the secrets behind the most remarkable timepieces.

Meeting him in person felt like stepping into a living archive of horological history — full of stories, discoveries, wild finds, and adventures only he could tell.

🙏 Dr. Crott, we salute you.
And we truly hope you’ll gift the watch world with another book someday… one filled with all the incredible tales from your lifetime of discoveries. The community is ready for it.

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