14/06/2025
This beautifully written story captures the essence of the north-eastern jungles and their diverse inhabitants, both human and animal. It goes beyond merely narrating the capture of a rogue elephant; it delves into the daily lives of everyone involved—the hunter, the locals, and the elephant itself. The author vividly portrays these experiences, allowing readers to feel as though they have personally visited these remarkable places.
Tarquin Hall skillfully describes Indian culture, traditions, poverty, corruption, wildlife, religion, and village life with such authenticity and beauty that even those who have never travelled there will find themselves enchanted by the land. This book comes highly recommended for nature lovers, adventure seekers, and wildlife enthusiasts, taking readers on an exhilarating journey through the enchanting forests and villages of Assam, while revealing the intimate lives and cherished bonds between mahouts and their kumkis.
What stands out is the author's meticulous attention to detail—the sights, sounds, smells, and textures of India, brought to life through skillful characterizations and engaging dialogue. Although the outcome may seem predictable, Hall skillfully extends the narrative with side adventures and captivating complications that resonate with the best travel stories, inviting you into a complex culture that gradually unfolds before you.
For example, the chief mahout proudly states he is a “Presbyterian, all the way,” yet later finds himself praying to the elephant god Ganesha, pouring coconut milk over its statue. When Hall questions him, he responds, “Better to be safer than sorrier, no?” While the story is an easy read, it leaves a profound impression.
On India’s North-East frontier, a rogue elephant terrorizes the paddy fields of Assam, claiming the lives of countless farmers and leaving devastation in its wake. Local forestry officials, unable to stop the elephant, call upon Dinesh Choudury, one of India’s last licensed elephant hunters, and issue a warrant for the animal’s destruction.
Upon reading about the ensuing hunt in a Delhi newspaper, journalist Tarquin Hall travels to Assam to investigate, convinced that no elephant could be guilty of the brutal crimes attributed to it.
Hall discovers that the Khasi people live in harmony with the elephants. They ride on their backs, care for them, converse with them, and pray to them. In this rich tapestry of life, elephants wrap their trunks lovingly around their masters’ shoulders, and village signposts guide where domesticated elephants should be tethered.
While this seems like a peaceful coexistence, Hall uncovers the suffering of the elephants. Having lost their natural habitat, they are hungry and confused, with little forest left to retreat into. Although some herds are adapting to domestication, many remain fierce and angry.
Gripping accounts of the rogue elephant and long journeys on the backs of village elephants reveal a fascinating world, showcasing magnificent emerald-green hills, glistening rainforests, and the vibrant people of North-East India. Yet, beneath this beauty lies unimaginable violence wrought by a crazed, drunk rogue elephant.
*To the Elephant Graveyard* is a compelling testament to the search for understanding in a region of India rich in folklore, steeped in tradition, and facing rapid changes as its ancient ways and once-abundant forests vanish.
Shiny Ajit
