05/12/2026
I am hopeful that you all are aware I carry 3D prints by Tallman 3D Arts - Scale Model Collective.
Some of you may wonder why I chose this printer over others to carry in the shop. I would like to share a post they made as to why:  https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1HS7ijd1ZG/?mibextid=wwXIfr
Who you chose to get 3D resin prints from is very important not only for quality but safety. Tallman goes above and beyond to put out high quality, minimal prep, and safe prints.
If you have thought about getting a 3D printed resin this printer is one that can be trusted, and is transparent regarding their prints and products.
A great way to sample one for yourself is to join in the fun of the Gumball Gambler that I offer.
How does that work? Or what is it you may be asking…. For $30 (shipping included) on Fridays I will go live and all those who paid will get to play! I will spin the dial until the ball drops, once it does I will open and reveal what you won. All prints are micro mini scale done in high quality engineering resin. There are a few special color (💜 royal purple) prints, as well as a 💰$50 gift card to Tallman where you can use it towards anything they have to offer.
Please PM me (Christi Bodwell) if you are interested in playing 💜💰🐴
Good morning!! I love mornings in my studio. 🥰
Yesterday I posed a question about print quality that's a bit more subtle than seeing layer shifts and print lines.
Photo on left:
🐴The mule filly on the left was printed in a cheaper resin. I was trying out a resin that would have been so much more economical than the stuff I currently buy but it just didn't live up to what I would want in a print, especially if I were to spend hours painting it. The main issue here, other than the slight translucency and the fact that it will yellow over time, is that it's overexposed. You can see this the best in the hooves, mane and ears. Overexposing, either initially while printing or even in post, can bloat the resin, wiping away details that the sculptor spent a long time on. The resin I use, while a bit more expensive, is a non-yellowing, engineering resin that produces sharp details. It has longer exposure times and so it's less prone to bloating.
Photo on right:
🐴🪽 When I was asked if I could do black, I grabbed a bottle of black on Amazon that was not my preferred resin brand but looked like it would do. I didn't like the translucency in the extremities and no matter how many times I cleaned it, sticky spots were left behind. It cured well but left a very patchy surface. Knowing that most of the black models going out won't be painted, this wasn't going to work. for me. So, the Pegasus on the right is the one I wouldn't accept. Luckily, after another round of shopping, I found that my preferred resin company does make black and that will be in stock from now on. It's a much opaquer and is a nice matte black.
While I do my best to minimize support scarring and nubs, some is to be expected, especially in larger scale prints where you want the model to hang on and not come off the supports, but a model should arrive to you free of any actual supports, properly cleaned and cured.
If you made it this far, congrats!! You didn't get bored lol. I love talking shop. If you have any additional questions, drop them below!
