NJ Sekela, Historic Clothiers

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NJ Sekela, Historic Clothiers We are an small production traditional apparel shop located in Gettysburg,PA.

Regarding our products, I encourage anyone with questions to speak with the independent retailers who carry and sell our goods. These companies purchase, inspect, and stand behind the items they stock:

• The Depot – Erwin, TN — thedepothistoric.com
• Carter & Jasper – Joe and Alicia Blunt — https://www.etsy.com/shop/CarterandJasperMerc

Fashion Closet Friday — Berlin Work SuspendersThis week’s Fashion Closet Friday examines an extraordinary pair of Berlin...
14/08/2026

Fashion Closet Friday — Berlin Work Suspenders

This week’s Fashion Closet Friday examines an extraordinary pair of Berlin work suspenders from the N.J. Sekela Collection, purchased within the past five years.

The broad straps feature colorful floral bouquets and butterflies, with the design worked against the existing ground rather than completely filling it. The reverse is backed with a gorgeous ivory moiré silk.

Even more fascinating is what provides the stretch. Rather than conventional rubber elastic, these suspenders contain extremely fine metal springs hand stitched into textile casings. More than a century later, they remain remarkably strong—something we would be unlikely to see had their elasticity depended upon period rubber.

The workmanship is exquisite. The attachment pieces are made from extremely thin split, or skiver, leather, with beautifully worked buttonholes and carefully finished transitions between the Berlin work, silk, spring sections, leather and hardware.

We have several other pairs of Berlin work suspenders in the collection, and their attachment configurations vary dramatically. We’ll be featuring more of them over the coming weeks before undertaking a fuller comparative study.

We’re also reorganizing the N.J. Sekela Collection online, creating a master page where the original garments and accessories featured in our historical studies can be found in one place, with links to each individual study.

An extraordinary combination of decorative needlework, luxury materials and ingenious nineteenth-century engineering.

N.J. Sekela Collection

Fashion Closet Friday — Berlin Work SuspendersThis week’s Fashion Closet Friday examines an extraordinary pair of Berlin...
14/08/2026

Fashion Closet Friday — Berlin Work Suspenders

This week’s Fashion Closet Friday examines an extraordinary pair of Berlin work suspenders from the N.J. Sekela Collection, purchased within the past five years.

At first glance, it is naturally the decoration that catches the eye. The broad straps feature repeating floral bouquets and colorful butterflies worked against the existing ground of the fabric. The ground itself is not completely worked in—the needlework forms the individual decorative motifs.

As beautiful as the Berlin work is, however, the construction of these suspenders is perhaps even more fascinating.

The decorated straps are backed with a gorgeous ivory moiré silk, adding another luxurious element to an already exceptionally well-made accessory. What initially appears to be ordinary elastic is actually an ingenious system of extremely fine metal springs hand stitched into textile casings. The close-up photographs reveal just how numerous and delicate these springs are. Remarkably, they remain quite strong and functional today. Had these sections relied upon rubber elastic, we would expect the rubber to have deteriorated substantially or disappeared altogether by now.

The workmanship throughout is exceptional—unlike almost anything we have encountered.

The attachment pieces are constructed from extraordinarily fine split, or skiver, leather, so thin that it behaves almost like a textile. The buttonholes are beautifully worked, and the transitions between the Berlin work, ivory moiré silk backing, spring sections, leather pieces and metal adjusters are all carefully finished by hand.

One of the particularly interesting aspects of studying surviving Berlin work suspenders is just how much their construction can vary. We have several other original pairs in the collection, and their attachment pieces and overall configurations are wildly different from one another. We’ll be featuring several of those pairs over the next few weeks and eventually undertaking a more complete comparative study of Berlin work suspenders, looking at their decoration, materials, attachment systems and methods of providing elasticity.

This also coincides with a larger project we have underway. We are reorganizing the N.J. Sekela Collection online to create a single master page for the objects we have featured in Fashion Closet Friday and our other historical clothing studies. Rather than having the individual studies scattered throughout the website and social media, the new collection page will bring them together in one place, with photographs and links to each individual study. As additional objects are documented, they will continue to be added to this growing reference.

That is really the purpose behind sharing these pieces. An individual artifact can tell us a great deal, but putting multiple surviving examples side by side begins to reveal the range of solutions nineteenth-century makers employed.

These suspenders are a wonderful example: elaborate Berlin work on the surface, beautiful ivory moiré silk beneath it, extraordinarily delicate handwork throughout, and a remarkably sophisticated mechanical system of tiny springs hidden within what appears at first to be a simple piece of elastic.

We’ll be looking at several more.

N.J. Sekela Collection

 # # Research Wednesday: A New Civil War Courts-Martial DatabaseFor this **Research Wednesday**, I’m very pleased to ann...
12/08/2026

# # Research Wednesday: A New Civil War Courts-Martial Database

For this **Research Wednesday**, I’m very pleased to announce a major new addition to the N.J. Sekela reference pages: a **searchable database of U.S. Army courts-martial from the American Civil War**.

This is one of those projects that, quite simply, needed to be done.

The database is based on the work compiled by **Thomas P. Lowry**, and because of the well-documented controversy surrounding Lowry's alteration of an original National Archives document, users will encounter an acknowledgment explaining the history and limitations of the source before entering the database. The Lowry material remains an extremely useful research tool, but researchers should ultimately **cross-reference entries against the original court-martial records and other primary sources whenever possible.**

But we're taking this considerably further.

We're beginning the long process of **identifying and adding photographs of the accused soldiers themselves**. Where an original wartime photograph can be located and reliably identified, we intend to link that image directly to the soldier's court-martial entry.

Imagine searching for a Civil War soldier, finding his court-martial record—and then actually seeing the man whose case you're reading.

This will take a long time. There are thousands of names to investigate, and many of these men may never have a surviving identified photograph. But the process has begun.

What makes this project particularly important is that, despite the enormous historical value of these records, there is currently **no comparable publicly searchable database provided by the U.S. Army Judge Advocate General's Corps that brings this material together in this way**.

I originally encountered this material while researching other projects and kept coming back to the same conclusion: **this needs to be available to researchers.**

So we're making it available.

The database will continue to grow as we identify photographs, verify individuals, and connect entries with additional primary-source material.

For researchers studying individual soldiers, military justice, discipline, desertion, crime, command, or the everyday realities of army life, courts-martial open an extraordinary window into the Civil War that is often missed by traditional military histories.

This is only the beginning, but I believe this database can become a significant contribution to the study of the **American Civil War and American military history in general.**

**You can explore the database directly here:**

https://njsekela.com/reference/courtmartials/index.html

**Research Wednesday continues.**

A searchable research index of Civil War courts-martial compiled from the Thomas P. Lowry database, with a documented research caveat and links back to original archival records.

12/08/2026

# # Research Wednesday — New York Civil War Contractors Map

Hump Day Humor is still alive and well—it’s just not here anymore. Wednesdays are now also going to give us an opportunity for **Research Wednesday**.

We’ve been doing quite a bit of work on the **N.J. Sekela New York Civil War Contractors Map**, and we’re beginning to add some really interesting new features to the individual contractor records.

One example is **Kohner Brothers**.

Search **“Kohner Bros.”** in the contractor window and take a look at their entry. You’ll now find:

* Their **main New York City office location**
* A **red star marking their separate manufacturing facility**
* **Period newspaper articles** relating to the firm
* **Extant uniforms and garments** connected with their government contracts

The separate locations are particularly interesting. Rather than simply putting a contractor's name on a map, we're trying to reconstruct how these businesses actually operated. In the case of Kohner Brothers, that means distinguishing between the firm's business office and the place where the manufacturing was actually being done.

As the project grows, we’ll continue adding contractors, secondary locations, surviving garments, period photographs, newspaper accounts, advertisements, and other primary-source material.

The idea is to make this more than a map—it is becoming a visual research database of the New York firms that supplied the Union war effort from 1861–1865.

**Search “Kohner Bros.” and click through the record to see the new features:**

[N.J. Sekela’s New York Civil War Contractors Map](https://njsekela.com/reference/nycontractors/index.html?utm_source=chatgpt.com)

This is the front and back of one of Greg Connell’s flyers. It’s almost a Who’s Who of 1980s reenacting, you see Michael...
11/08/2026

This is the front and back of one of Greg Connell’s flyers. It’s almost a Who’s Who of 1980s reenacting, you see Michael Kraus and Charlie Child is even in there.

He’s got several flyers he did. They’re all pretty high-quality stuff.

11/08/2026
 # ✨ **20th Century Tuesdays** ✨ # # **Featured Item** # # # **Boy’s Brown Corduroy Trousers, c. 1920s****N.J. Sekela Co...
11/08/2026

# ✨ **20th Century Tuesdays** ✨

# # **Featured Item**

# # # **Boy’s Brown Corduroy Trousers, c. 1920s**

**N.J. Sekela Collection**

---

# # **Description**

This week’s **20th Century Tuesdays** looks at something decidedly less glamorous than an evening dress or fashionable pair of shoes, but perhaps even more revealing of everyday life: a wonderfully preserved and well-used pair of **boy’s brown corduroy trousers dating to the 1920s**.

Corduroy was ideally suited to children’s clothing. It was durable, warm, relatively economical, and capable of standing up to the considerable abuse an active boy could inflict upon his clothes. Period catalogs and advertisements show corduroy being widely marketed for boys’ school, play, and everyday clothing during the 1920s.

This particular pair is especially interesting because these are **full-length trousers rather than knickerbockers**, which were still enormously popular for younger boys during the decade. With a **29-inch waist and 30-inch inseam**, these were most likely intended for an older boy or adolescent.

And, like so much period clothing, they were constructed with the expectation that the wearer might continue growing.

---

# # **Measurements**

* Waist: **29″**
* Inseam: **30″**

A substantial **outlet at the center back** provided additional material so the waist and seat could be enlarged as necessary. On a growing boy, that was an extremely practical feature and helped extend the useful life of what represented a significant household purchase.

---

# # **Materials & Construction**

The trousers are constructed from a substantial **brown cotton corduroy**, with a straight and relatively generous leg providing ample room for movement.

# # # **Construction Details**

* Brown cotton corduroy
* Full-length trouser construction
* Separate waistband
* Belt loops
* **Center-back outlet** allowing the trousers to be enlarged
* Button fly
* **Machine-worked buttonholes**
* **Reverse-button waistband closure**
* Two rear horizontal welt pockets
* **Wearer’s left rear pocket has a button closure**
* Sturdy off-white cotton pocketing
* Predominantly machine-sewn construction
* **Hand-finished trouser hems**

The interior seam finishing is particularly interesting.

The raw seam allowances are **not Merrowed or overlocked**. Instead, the edges are stabilized with a **single line of machine stitching running lengthwise near the raw edge**. It is an extremely straightforward solution: enough stitching to help control fraying without the additional operation of enclosing or overcasting the seam allowance.

In contrast to the largely machine-made construction, the **bottom hems are turned and finished by hand**.

That combination of industrial machine construction with selective hand finishing is one of the details that makes original garments so valuable for study.

---

# # **The Fly & Waistband**

The front retains a traditional **button fly**, with the buttonholes worked by machine.

The waistband also uses a **reverse-button closure**, another small construction detail that becomes apparent only when the original garment is examined closely rather than interpreted from a photograph.

At the center back, the generous outlet is especially noteworthy. Rather than cutting away excess material, the manufacturer deliberately retained cloth so that the trousers could be altered.

For children’s clothing, this makes tremendous practical sense. A boy could grow considerably between one school year and the next, and a garment that could be let out represented additional months—or perhaps years—of useful wear.

---

# # **Pockets**

The trousers have two horizontal **rear welt pockets**, with the **wearer’s left pocket closing with a button**.

Inside, substantial off-white cotton was used for the pocket bags. These are practical rather than decorative pockets, designed to withstand actual use.

The pocketing, outlet, reinforced waistband construction, and heavy corduroy all reinforce the same point: **these trousers were intended to work.**

---

# # **Context & Dating**

The overall construction and silhouette place these trousers comfortably within the **1920s**.

Knickers remained extremely common for American boys throughout much of the decade, particularly among younger children. Long trousers increasingly appeared as boys approached adolescence and adulthood.

The **29″ waist and 30″ inseam** are therefore particularly useful measurements. Rather than belonging to a small child, these trousers were probably worn by an **older boy or teenager transitioning into adult styles of dress**.

Corduroy was especially appropriate for this market. It offered durability for school and outdoor activity while still producing a respectable-looking garment suitable for everyday public wear.

---

# # **Wear Tells a Story**

Perhaps the most valuable aspect of these trousers is that **they were actually worn**.

There is abrasion, staining, stress to the fabric, replacement or mismatched buttons, and evidence of use throughout the garment.

That is not something to apologize for in a study garment.

Quite the opposite.

A pristine garment tells us how something was manufactured. A heavily worn garment can tell us **how it actually performed**.

We can see where the corduroy rubbed, where seams received stress, where buttons were lost, and how the construction responded to years of movement and wear.

It transforms the trousers from simply an example of 1920s fashion into an artifact of an individual boy’s everyday life.

---

# # **Conclusion**

These corduroy trousers are a wonderful example of the practical thinking behind children’s clothing in the 1920s.

The substantial corduroy, button fly, machine-worked buttonholes, cotton pocketing, hand-finished hems, simple seam finishing, reverse waistband closure, functional welt pockets, and especially the **center-back outlet** all point toward a garment designed around durability and longevity.

At **29″ in the waist with a 30″ inseam**, they likely belonged to an older boy—and whoever purchased them clearly expected them to last.

**Make them sturdy. Leave room to grow. Repair them when necessary. And keep wearing them.**

Nearly a century later, that philosophy remains written into the garment itself.

**N.J. Sekela Collection**

https://www.cafassofuneralhome.com/obituary/kevin-mcdermott
11/08/2026

https://www.cafassofuneralhome.com/obituary/kevin-mcdermott

McDermott, Kevin Dennis of Groveland, entered into eternal rest on Tuesday, August 4, 2026 in the Boston Medical Center after being in failing health. He was 72 years old. Kevin was born on Michigan and lived in Groveland for many years. He was a talented, professional musician by profession. He

11/08/2026
 # # # Kindred Spirits — August 1987Kevin McDermott always used to say that when you found kindred spirits, you could se...
11/08/2026

# # # Kindred Spirits — August 1987

Kevin McDermott always used to say that when you found kindred spirits, you could send them a nineteenth-century letter and get one back. And that was one of the things we did.

I maintained and retained these letters over the years, and looking at them again now, they provide a really interesting insight into Kevin and the way he approached living history.

This particular letter is from August of 1987

What we were doing was more than simply writing to each other in old-fashioned language. It taught you how letters were actually written in the nineteenth century—the mechanics of using Spencerian-style handwriting, the flow of the writing, the structure of the letter, the choice of words, the salutations and closings, and all the little elements that went into correspondence at the time.

After a few attempts at doing it myself, untutored, I naturally started looking at nineteenth-century letter-writing books and original correspondence to see how it was really supposed to be done. I then studied the examples and then tried to put what I learned into practice.

That was very much Kevin's approach to everything, and I think these letters are a particularly good example of what I would call **the science of reenacting**.

It was a combination of study, examination of originals, and then the actual practice of an art.

Kevin wasn't content simply to read about something or look at an original. He wanted to understand how it worked and then actually do it. Letter writing was no different. You studied original letters, studied the manuals that taught people how to write them, learned the handwriting, and then sat down with pen and paper and tried to do it yourself.

I saved these letters because Kevin really was an extraordinarily interesting person in that respect. They are little surviving pieces of that process and of a friendship between two people who shared an interest in trying to understand the nineteenth century by actually practicing the things we studied.

And, just as Kevin said, when you found a kindred spirit in the hobby, you could send them a nineteenth-century letter—and get one back.

Address

PA

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