01/28/2018
Santa Cruz/Monterey/Carmel-by-the-Sea:
I had just spent a forgettable week alone in a very rainy San Francisco and as great as San Fran is, it's not optimal to see the city alone with kids and in the rain.
I had been to Carmel and Monterey only once before several years ago when Ann ran the Big Sur marathon and couldn't wait to get back. Monterey and Carmel are two of the most breathtaking places on the planet; the rugged Pacific coast cliffs, scenic drives, beaches, and golf courses are continuous eye candy. We found the perfect place to post up in the camper that had easy to access to Santa Cruz and both coastal towns, a Holiday KOA near Watsonville on La Selva Beach. We don't normally stay at KOA's, they can be very hit or miss but we did the research on this location and it's a kids camping paradise. I felt pretty guilty for the boring week in San Fran so we splurged a bit on it but it was well worth. This KOA had a palm tree climbing wall, two playgrounds, a convenience store, a pool and hot tub, and giant jumping pillows and sunshine in the forecast.
First stop and only seven miles away was Santa Cruz. Santa Cruz is a rugged surfing town with an awesome boardwalk. The boardwalk wasn't open but it's still open to walk along and it's one of the few places on the west coast, that we have experienced, that you can find a carnival-like, old-school boardwalk with rides, palm trees, arcades and piers. It was November and a local crew was setting up the Santa's Corner, it's pretty strange to see Christmas decorations in 75 degree weather and fake snow under palm trees. The pier is so long that they allow cars to access it and the cost is only a buck! There's no shortage of seafood restaurants and souvenir shops on the pier and the kids and I love watching the sea lions bark and argue with each other while trying to find the most comfortable spot in the sun, it's hilarious to watch. Ann doesn't do well in most marina/pier-like settings; there's only so much a Kansas girl can take with a crazy three-year old running amuck with only aged wooden rails in the way and 1,000 pound animals fighting each other a few feet away.
One of the best things about travelling is getting to see your friends and family that visit you along the way. On a virtual whim, my sister Jenny, came to visit us while we were camping near Santa Cruz, Monterey and Carmel in CA. The timing was perfect, Jenny was ready for some respite from the cold in Colorado and Ann left the day after our Santa Cruz visit on a business trip and it's ALWAYS nice to have a helping hand when Ann is away.
I couldn't wait to show my sweet, hard-working, wonderful sister this part of the world! Jenny was open to everything but she had a bucket list item; the Redwoods. At first, I was dismayed, as much as I wanted to show Jenny the amazing Avenue of the Giants, it was way too far to backtrack to Northern California. After a quick search, I realized that the coastal Redwoods at Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park was just above Santa Cruz. The trees at this park are coastal so they get a lot more moisture and tend to not grow as large but you can still find a few impressive groves with giants. Despite the insane rainstorms, we only had a few short days and we still had all of Carmel and Monterey to check out so we stayed on schedule and headed out. We weren't surprised that the park was void of anyone else, this wasn't just rain, this was an all day long bonafide deluge. The best place to see the big boys at Henry Cowell are on the Redwood Loop Trail; it's about a mile long with historical information and pictures along the way. We brought umbrellas, hats and raincoats but it didn't matter, we were cold and soaking wet within minutes and we basically just gave up on staying even remotely dry which made it that much more fun. One of the best things about camping full-time and being on this journey is realizing that you are in control of NOTHING and nothing is easy and that's okay.
Watching my sister run in the rain with Sam and hearing them giggle is a memory I won't soon forget. The rain isn't convenient but it's beautiful and invigorating, especially among these thousand(s)-year-old trees. Another reason why there may not be a lot of people in a rainstorm in the Redwoods? They FALL...because they are soaked. We know because one began it's descent to the earth not sixty yards from us. Where do you run when a Redwood is falling? No one teaches you this and the answer is, nowhere...because you don't know where it's going and you don't know where the other trees that the original tree hits will fall either. We both grabbed a kid and crouched down in a Spider-Man position trying to figure out what do. Even with the storm, the sound of the cracking booms of the trees falling was so intense, scary and exhilarating. As soon as we saw the last tree fall, we booked it to the trailhead high-fived and caught our breath. June was incredibly frightened and the experience happened so quickly that she didn't know what had even happened and she wasn't happy about our little survival celebration, at all. In short, it was AWESOME but your takeaway here is obvious...do NOT go to the coastal Redwoods in a rainstorm.
Despite our crazy adventure, we changed clothes (one of the perks of having all of our clothes in bins in the car 24/7) and headed to Monterey, about 40 minutes from Santa Cruz. The Monterey Aquarium is considered the best in the world. It's pricey (about $45 a person) but worth it; this place is huge with countless exhibits and a huge aquarium that runs through the entire museum. There are views of the coast and indoor/outdoor exhibits everywhere. Within walking distance of the Aquarium is Cannery Row; a historic waterfront street that used to be full of now-defunct sardine canning factories. It's now full of piers, restaurants, and shops but they've managed to keep the working port/nautical feel of the area.
We headed out early to Carmel-by-the-Sea the next day. Carmel and Monterey are just a few miles from each other. Our first stop? The 17-Mile Drive. If you haven't spend the hour or so it takes to make this trip, you have to try to get it on your bucket list. Talk about feeling like you are in CA coastal heaven; every twist and turn brings a new look at paradise and the homes are insane. It runs through Pebble Beach and Pacific Grove on the Monterey Peninsula, which hugs the Pacific coastline and passes famous golf courses. My favorite part of the drive is stopping at Cypress Point, Spanish Bay, Spyglass and Pebble Beach courses. To my surprise, you can access quite a few holes and the grounds are fairly open to the public. We, of course, stopped for a pic at the iconic Lone Cypress, a tree that stands on granite with the Pacific ocean as it's backdrop, a must stop.
You can't go to Carmel without hitting Carmel Beach. It was windy but sunny and we took full advantage. The sand on this beach is sugary, more like the sand in Florida than much of California. It's small but clean, with dogs romping in the surf and Pebble Beach's 16th and 3rd holes in the background. Jenny took a well-deserved nap with the sun on her face while the kids and I played in the sand with a fleet of golden doodles, the apparent dog-of-choice in Carmel. We stuck around to grab a quick bite, do some people watching (there are a ton of famous people that live in Carmel) and watch the sun set at the beach and I'm so glad we did.
I can only try to describe the feeling of spending these few days with my sister. We have that easy, comfortable relationship that you really ONLY have with a sister; one that overcomes all obstacles in life, big and small; one that allows you to laugh at everything, because nothing is off-limits with your sister and you don't have to worry about offending anyone, we love that and we laugh, a lot. Your sister knows when to tell your kids to knock it off and knows when they need a hug and there's not a worry about it, I love that.
More than that, my sister is also my hero and has been for as long as I can remember. She's been my protector, my friend, and the person that taught me to do things the right way the first time; and definitely long before she started having to fight cancer (and currently kicking it's ass thank you very much).