08/17/2026
HOW THE FRIULIANS KEPT THIS SQUASH
Zucchino Rugoso Friulano. Pale yellow, warty, goose-necked, and almost impossible to find outside northeastern Italy. I have a crate of it right now.
Here's the thing about this variety: the flesh is white, firm, and barely wet at all. It tastes closer to a pumpkin than a zucchini. It holds its shape in the pan and releases almost no water. In Friuli it's known for risotto, frittata, and eaten raw in a carpaccio with olive oil and lemon.
But the interesting question was what happens when you have too much of it - and that sent me into the Italian preserving record.
There's no preserve documented under this variety's own name. What there is: Friuli has a strong vegetable-putting-up tradition, and alongside their famous brovada, the vegetables most often preserved there are turnips, asparagus, cauliflower and zucchini. And every one of those methods works better with this squash than with a common green one, because the usual failure of preserved zucchini is that it goes to mush. This one doesn't.
Three methods, oldest tradition to newest.
SOTT'OLIO — under oil, the Friulian way
A producer in Cordenons, Pordenone, still makes theirs with zucchini, oil, wine vinegar, onion, sea salt, basil, black pepper, and juniper. The juniper is what tells you this is northern Italy and not the south.
4 lbs squash, cut into batons or 1/4 inch coins
3 tbsp coarse salt
2 cups white wine vinegar
2 cups water
1 small onion, sliced thin
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp juniper berries, lightly crushed
Fresh basil
Extra virgin olive oil to cover
Salt the cut squash in a bowl. Leave 2 hours to draw the water out. Rinse and squeeze dry. Boil the vinegar and water together, blanch the squash 2 to 3 minutes only, drain, and spread on clean towels overnight until completely dry. Pack into sterilized jars with the onion, pepper, juniper and basil. Cover fully with oil. Work out the air bubbles. Rest at least a month before opening.
IN SAÒR — sweet, sour, and genuinely old
Same treatment as sarde in saor: vinegar, onions, raisins and pine nuts. This wasn't invented as a flavour idea. It was how Venetian sailors kept fried food from spoiling. The firm flesh of the Rugoso is exactly why it works here - it won't fall apart in the vinegar.
3 lbs squash, sliced 1/4 inch, grilled or pan-fried until just marked
3 large onions, sliced thin
1 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup raisins
1/4 cup pine nuts
2 tbsp sugar
Salt, a bay leaf, a few cloves
Soften the onions slowly in the oil. Add the vinegar, wine, sugar, raisins, pine nuts and spices. Simmer 10 minutes until slightly reduced. Layer squash and saòr alternately in sterilized jars, cover with the liquid, seal. Give it a day minimum for the flavours to marry.
ESSICCATE — dried
The oldest preservation method there is. Italian farmers cut zucchini into rounds or long strips, sometimes threaded them onto string like necklaces, and hung them outside or laid them on cane and wood frames in the summer sun.
The documented protocol is Pugliese rather than Friulian: cut by hand lengthwise, salted, dried in the sun down to 30–35% moisture, dipped in pure wine vinegar for a few seconds, dried again, then stored dry or packed under oil.
August in the Okanagan is made for this. Slice thin, salt lightly, lay on screens, turn often. Two to four days. Store bone dry in paper bags or sealed jars.
To use them: soak in warm water 30 minutes and treat them like dried mushrooms - risotto, pasta, stews. Ground fine, they make a squash flour for thickening.
AND THE EASIEST METHOD OF ALL
One grower who trialled this variety harvested his last fruits — the ones he'd chosen for seed — at the end of November. They kept so well he didn't cut them open until February 10th.
So let a few of your best fruits go hard-shelled on the vine. You get seed for next year and eating squash into late winter, with no processing at all. That's the whole point of an open-pollinated variety: it feeds you twice.
ONE SAFETY NOTE, BECAUSE IT MATTERS
The vinegar blanch in the sott'olio and dried methods is not for flavour. It's the acidification step that makes oil-packed vegetables safe. Skipping it is the classic route to botulism. Don't skip it.
And salt-and-drain first no matter which method you choose. Even a dry-fleshed squash will weep into the jar otherwise.
Seed for Zucchino Rugoso Friulano will be in the shop in January 2027.